The Sparkling Hanky Panky

The Hanky Panky was created by Ada "Coley" Coleman, the head bartender at the American Bar of the Savoy Hotel in London, who began working at the Savoy in 1903. Coleman developed the drink for the actor Charles Hawtrey, who would arrive at the bar exhausted and ask for "something with a bit of punch in it," and after she had spent hours experimenting on a new cocktail, Hawtrey reportedly drained the glass and declared it "the real hanky-panky." The drink is a sweet martini made distinctive by a measure of Fernet-Branca, the bitter Italian amaro, and it appears in Harry Craddock's *Savoy Cocktail Book*. It is an IBA official cocktail (Wikipedia)).

The Hanky Panky lives or dies on the Fernet-Branca. Without it the drink is simply gin and sweet vermouth, but the two dashes of Fernet add a dark, minty, bitter edge that cuts the vermouth's sweetness and gives the cocktail its name-worthy character. Topped with a little sparkling wine, the Hanky Panky becomes a brunch aperitif of surprising sophistication, the bubbles lifting the Fernet's bitterness and the vermouth's richness into something that reads as dry and aromatic rather than heavy.

Ingredients (serves 6): - 9 oz London Dry gin (such as Beefeater or Tanqueray) - 9 oz sweet vermouth (such as Carpano Antica Formula or Cocchi di Torino) - 1 oz Fernet-Branca - 1 bottle (3 ⅛ cups) chilled Cava Brut or Brut Champagne - Orange twists for garnish

Instructions: Combine the gin, sweet vermouth, and Fernet-Branca in a mixing glass with ice. Stir (do not shake) for 20 to 30 seconds until well-chilled and properly diluted. Strain into chilled coupe glasses. Top slowly with 1 oz chilled Cava per glass, pouring gently down the side. Express an orange twist over each drink, bending the peel skin-side down to release the oils, then drape it on the rim.

For a Crowd (serves 12): - 18 oz gin, 18 oz sweet vermouth, 2 oz Fernet-Branca - 2 bottles chilled Cava Brut - Pre-batch and stir over ice in a pitcher; strain into glasses and top with Cava at service.

Variations: - Hanky Panky (2:1 gin-forward): Increase the gin to 12 oz for a drier, more botanical version preferred by many modern bartenders. - Fernet-Forward: Add a third dash of Fernet per glass for a more bitter, bracing aperitif. - Bourbon Hanky Panky: Replace the gin with bourbon for a warmer, sweeter sibling.

Pairing: The Hanky Panky's bittersweet character pairs with savory brunch dishes such as a croque madame or a cheese board with aged Comté. Its bitterness also makes it a fine palate-opener alongside the French sparkling boulevardier at the bitter end of a brunch table.

Reference Links: - Hanky panky (Ada Coleman, Savoy Hotel, Charles Hawtrey, IBA official): Wikipedia)

Pro Tips: Stir, do not shake, because the Hanky Panky is a spirit-forward drink that should be silky and clear, not cloudy. Use a rich sweet vermouth such as Carpano Antica Formula, as its vanilla depth stands up to the Fernet. Fernet-Branca is intense, so measure it carefully; a heavy hand turns the drink medicinal. Express the orange twist over the surface before dropping it in, because the orange oils soften the Fernet's bitterness on the nose.