Japanese Katsu Curry: The British-to-Tokyo Curry That Became a National Dish

Curry arrived in Japan during the Meiji Restoration, brought by the British Navy in the late 19th century. The British had adapted Indian curry into a mild, thickened stew, and the Imperial Japanese Navy adopted the dish for its sailors, substituting rice for bread and thickening the sauce with flour to prevent spilling at sea. By the early 1900s, curry had spread from the military to civilian restaurants, and by the 1960s, with the invention of instant curry roux blocks, it became one of the most widely eaten dishes in Japan.

Katsu curry, the combination of a breaded and fried tonkatsu cutlet served over rice with curry sauce, is said to have been first served at Ginza Swiss, a restaurant in Tokyo, in 1947, though other sources date it to 1918 or 1921. Regardless of when it was invented, the combination of crispy cutlet, rich curry sauce, and fluffy rice became a Japanese comfort food classic, served in restaurants, made in homes, and sold in convenience stores across the country.

About the Ingredients: The tonkatsu is a pork cutlet, usually from the loin, breaded with panko breadcrumbs and deep-fried until golden and crisp. The curry sauce is Japanese-style curry, which is sweeter and milder than Indian curry, made with a roux of flour, butter, and curry powder, enriched with sautéed onions, carrots, and a grated apple or honey for sweetness. The rice is Japanese short-grain, cooked until sticky and slightly sweet. Fukujinzuke, a sweet pickled vegetable relish, is the traditional accompaniment.

Ingredients (serves 4): The Curry Sauce: - 2 tablespoons unsalted butter - 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour - 1½ tablespoons Japanese curry powder (S&B or Vermont brand) - 1 large onion, finely chopped - 2 carrots, diced - 1 medium potato, diced - 2 cups chicken or vegetable stock - 1 apple, grated - 1 tablespoon soy sauce - 1 tablespoon ketchup - 1 teaspoon honey - Salt to taste

The Tonkatsu: - 4 pork loin cutlets (about 5 oz each), trimmed - ½ cup all-purpose flour - 2 large eggs, beaten - 1½ cups panko breadcrumbs - Vegetable oil for frying - Salt and freshly ground black pepper

To Serve: - 2 cups Japanese short-grain rice, cooked - Fukujinzuke pickles (or pickled red ginger)

Instructions: To make the curry sauce, melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the flour and curry powder, whisking constantly to make a roux. Cook for 2 minutes until fragrant. Remove from heat and set aside.

In a large pot, heat 1 tablespoon of oil over medium heat. Add the chopped onion and cook until softened and lightly browned, about 8 minutes. Add the diced carrots and potato and cook for 3 minutes. Add the stock and bring to a simmer. Cook for 15 minutes until the vegetables are tender.

Whisk the curry roux into the pot, stirring until it dissolves completely. Add the grated apple, soy sauce, ketchup, and honey. Simmer for 10 minutes, stirring frequently, until the sauce thickens to a rich, glossy consistency. Season with salt. Keep warm over low heat.

While the curry simmers, prepare the tonkatsu. Season the pork cutlets with salt and pepper. Dredge each in flour, shaking off excess. Dip in the beaten egg, then press firmly into the panko breadcrumbs, coating both sides. Let rest for 5 minutes so the breadcrumbs adhere.

Heat oil in a deep pan to 350°F. Carefully lower the cutlets into the oil, two at a time. Fry for 4 to 5 minutes, turning once, until deep golden brown and cooked through. Remove and drain on a wire rack. Let rest for 3 minutes, then slice each cutlet into strips.

To serve, place a mound of rice on one side of each plate. Ladle the curry sauce on the other side. Place the sliced tonkatsu on top of the rice. Serve with fukujinzuke pickles on the side.

The Mimosa Pairing Logic: The sweet, mild curry and crispy tonkatsu call for a mimosa with fruit and freshness. The Tropical Mango Mimosa is the ideal partner, its mango sweetness echoing the grated apple in the curry. For a more aromatic pairing, the Yuzu Honey Mimosa adds a Japanese citrus note that bridges the gap between the curry and the champagne.

Reference Links: - Japanese Curry – Wikipedia - Katsu Curry – Wikipedia

Make-Ahead: The curry sauce can be made up to 3 days ahead and refrigerated. It actually improves with time, as the flavors meld and deepen. Reheat gently on the stovetop. The tonkatsu should be fried fresh, as the crispy crust is the whole point of the dish. Have the rice cooked and the sauce reheated before you begin frying the cutlets, as they should be served within 5 minutes of coming out of the oil.

Pro Tips: The panko breadcrumbs are what give tonkatsu its signature airy, crisp crust. Do not substitute regular breadcrumbs, which produce a denser, heavier coating. Press the panko firmly onto the cutlet but do not pack it down. The idea is to let the crumbs stand up slightly so they create texture in the hot oil. The curry should be thick enough to coat the back of a spoon but still pourable. If it is too thick, add a splash of stock. If too thin, simmer for a few more minutes.