Youtiao and Soy Milk: The Chinese Breakfast of Fried Dough Sticks and Warm Bean Soup

Youtiao — the long, golden, puffy fried dough sticks of the Chinese breakfast — are the airy, slightly savory twin crullers that, dipped into a bowl of warm savory soy milk or torn into a bowl of congee, have been the morning meal of China for centuries. According to Wikipedia, youtiao — also known as a Chinese cruller, Chinese oil stick, or Chinese donut stick — is a long, golden-brown, deep-fried strip of dough normally eaten at breakfast, traditionally served with warm soy milk (sweet or savory), rice congee, or stuffed inside a flatbread (*shaobing*). The Woks of Life describes youtiao as "a breakfast favorite in China," known in Cantonese as *yàuhjagwái* ("oil-fried ghost"), a name whose folk origin traces the dough to a Song Dynasty legend of hatred for a treacherous official fried in effigy.

The genius of youtiao is the dough: a simple flour-and-water dough leavened with baking ammonia or baking powder and alum, rested overnight, then stretched into long pairs of strips pressed together and dropped into hot oil, where they puff and expand to many times their size, golden and hollow inside. The two sticks are pressed together so that, fried, they pull apart into two puffy halves — the better for dipping. Eaten fresh from the oil, dunked into a bowl of warm savory soy milk (the northern style, flavored with pickled vegetables, scallions, and a little sesame oil) or sweet soy milk (the southern style), youtiao is the most popular breakfast in China.

About the Ingredients

Dough — all-purpose flour, water, a little oil, and a leavening of baking powder (and traditionally a touch of alum and ammonia for the crispest, puffiest result; home recipes use baking powder alone).

Rest — the dough rests overnight in the refrigerator; the long rest relaxes the gluten so the sticks stretch without snapping back and puff dramatically in the oil.

Shaping — the dough is rolled flat, cut into strips, and two strips are stacked and pressed together down the center with a chopstick; the pair is stretched long and lowered into the oil, where the two halves puff and pull apart slightly.

Soy milk — fresh, warm soy milk, served savory (northern style: with pickled mustard greens, scallions, sesame oil, and a splash of black vinegar) or sweet (southern style: with sugar).

Ingredients (makes about 8 youtiao): - 2 cups all-purpose flour - 1 tsp baking powder - 1/4 tsp baking soda - 1/2 tsp salt - 1 tbsp neutral oil - 3/4 cup warm water (more as needed) - Neutral oil, for deep-frying - For the soy milk: 4 cups fresh soy milk (homemade or good-quality store-bought), warm - Savory fixings: pickled mustard greens, chopped scallions, sesame oil, a few drops of black vinegar, cilantro - Or sweet: sugar to taste

Instructions: In a bowl, mix the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and oil. Add the warm water and knead to a soft, smooth dough, adding water by the tablespoon if dry. Knead 5 minutes until smooth. Cover and refrigerate overnight (8–12 hours) — the long rest is essential for the stretch and puff.

Turn the rested dough onto a lightly oiled surface (not floured — flour inhibits the seal). Roll into a rectangle about 1/4 inch thick. Cut into strips about 1 inch wide and 4 inches long. Stack two strips, and press a chopstick down the center to seal them together. Repeat with the remaining strips.

Heat 2 inches of oil in a wide pan to 375°F. Take a paired strip, hold the two ends, and stretch it gently to about twice its length. Lower into the hot oil and fry, turning constantly with chopsticks so it puffs evenly, 1–2 minutes until golden and dramatically expanded. Drain on paper towels. Repeat with the rest.

For the savory soy milk: ladle warm soy milk into bowls and top with a spoonful of pickled mustard greens, scallions, a drizzle of sesame oil, a few drops of black vinegar, and cilantro. Tear the hot youtiao into pieces and drop into the soy milk to soften briefly, or dip and eat.

The Mimosa Pairing Logic: The savory, puffy youtiao and the warm soy milk want a bright, clean drink that echoes the soy milk's mildness and refreshes after the fried dough. A cucumber mint mimosa is a beautiful choice — the cucumber and mint are clean and cool, a perfect counter to the hot fried dough and the savory soy milk. A yuzu honey mimosa is equally lovely, its bright citrus a beautiful echo of the Chinese breakfast and a nod to the East. This pairing is, in its way, the brunch equivalent of youtiao and a bowl of warm soy milk — a sparkling toast to the Chinese morning and the oil-fried ghost.

Reference Links: - Youtiao (Chinese fried dough stick, breakfast, soy milk, shaobing): Wikipedia - Youtiao Recipe (Chinese Fried Dough, breakfast favorite): The Woks of Life

Make-Ahead: The dough must rest overnight in the refrigerator — this is not optional; the long rest is what allows the sticks to stretch and puff. The dough can be made up to 24 hours ahead and held cold. Youtiao must be fried to order and eaten immediately; they lose their puff and crispness within minutes of frying and cannot be revived. Warm the soy milk just before serving.

Pro Tips: Rest the dough overnight; a short rest produces dense, heavy sticks that will not puff. Work on an oiled, not floured, surface; flour keeps the two strips from sealing and they pull apart in the oil. Press the pair firmly down the center with a chopstick so they stay joined but separable. Stretch the dough gently before lowering into the oil; a stretched stick puffs dramatically, an unstretched one stays small. Keep the oil hot — 375°F — and turn the stick constantly so it puffs evenly and browns on all sides. Eat at once; a cold youtiao is a sad, flat thing, and a hot fresh one is among the great breakfasts of the world.