Cannoli con Crema di Brachetto

Between 827 and 1091, Sicily was the Emirate of Sicily, governed from Palermo by Arab rulers who brought sugar cane, citrus, almonds, pistachios, and candied-fruit techniques to the island. It is in this period that food historians place the origin of the cannolo. Some accounts set the invention in the palaces of Caltanissetta, where the concubines of Arab princes are said to have made the filled tubes as a Carnival treat. Others place it in the convents of Palermo and Messina, where nuns prepared them for the feast days before Lent. The name itself descends from the Arabic *qanawāt*, "tubes," for the shape of the shell.

The shell is the defining thing. A circle of dough, wrapped around a river reed or a metal tube and fried crisp, then filled at the last minute with sweetened ricotta. In Sicily there is a saying, "cannoli are made to be filled," a double meaning the locals enjoy explaining. The ends are dotted with candied orange peel, chocolate chips, or crushed pistachios, the green of Bronte the most prized.

Our Mimosavated version keeps the traditional crisp shell and ricotta filling and adds a splash of Brachetto d'Acqui, a sweet, lightly sparkling red wine from Piedmont with aromas of strawberry and rose. It tints the filling a faint blush pink and adds a delicate berry-floral note against the sweet ricotta.

Ingredients (makes 12 cannoli):

The Shells: - 8 ⅞ oz all-purpose flour - 2 tablespoons sugar - 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, softened - 1 large egg - 1 egg yolk - 2 tablespoons dry Marsala wine (or white wine vinegar) - A pinch of salt - Peanut or canola oil for frying (about 1 qt)

The Brachetto Ricotta Filling: - 1 lb 10 oz whole-milk ricotta (see Pro Tips on choosing ricotta) - 5 ¼ oz powdered sugar, sifted - ¼ cup Brachetto d'Acqui (sweet sparkling red wine) - 1 teaspoon vanilla extract - 1 tablespoon finely chopped candied orange peel - 1 ¾ oz dark chocolate chips or mini chocolate chips - A pinch of cinnamon

To Garnish: - 3 ½ oz pistachios, roughly chopped (preferably Sicilian Bronte pistachios) - Powdered sugar, for dusting - Edible gold leaf (optional, for Mimosavated flair)

Making the Shells: In a food processor or by hand, combine the flour, sugar, salt, and softened butter until the mixture resembles fine crumbs. Add the whole egg, egg yolk, and Marsala. Process or knead until a smooth, elastic dough forms — about 5 minutes by hand. The dough should be firm but pliable. Wrap in plastic and rest at room temperature for 1 hour.

Roll the dough out as thin as possible — aim for 1mm. A pasta machine is ideal: start at the widest setting and work down to the thinnest. Cut into 3 ⅞ in (4-inch) circles or ovals.

Wrap each circle around a cannoli tube or metal cannoli form, overlapping the edges slightly. Seal the overlap with a dab of egg white. Press the edges to adhere. Fry in oil heated to 356°F (350°F) for about 2-3 minutes, turning once, until deep golden brown. Drain on paper towels. Let cool for a few minutes, then gently slide the shell off the tube. If it sticks, tap the tube gently against the counter.

Making the Brachetto Ricotta Filling: This is the most important step. First, drain the ricotta: place it in a fine-mesh sieve over a bowl for at least 4 hours, or overnight. Excess moisture is the enemy of a crisp cannoli. Press it gently to extract as much liquid as possible.

In a large bowl, combine the drained ricotta and powdered sugar. Beat with a whisk or electric mixer until completely smooth and creamy. Add the Brachetto d'Acqui, vanilla extract, and cinnamon, and mix until incorporated. Fold in the candied orange peel and chocolate chips.

Filling and Serving: This is the golden rule of cannoli: fill them at the very last minute. If you fill the shells ahead of time, the ricotta will soften the crisp pastry and you'll have a sad, soggy mess. Pipe the filling into both ends of each shell using a pastry bag fitted with a large star tip. Press gently so the filling reaches the center. Dip each end into the chopped pistachios. Dust with powdered sugar and, if using, apply a small piece of edible gold leaf to each end for the Mimosavated touch.

The Mimosa Pairing Logic: The Brachetto in the filling naturally pairs with a rosé mimosa or a strawberry mimosa — the berry notes complement the Brachetto's strawberry-rose character. A peach bellini mimosa is also lovely here, as the peach's soft sweetness echoes the ricotta's creaminess. Avoid dry, citrus-forward mimosas — they'll clash with the dessert's warm, sweet profile.

Reference Links: - Cannoli history and Sicilian origins: Wikipedia - The secret history of cannoli: National Geographic - Brachetto d'Acqui wine guide: Wine Folly - Sicilian Bronte pistachios: Wikipedia - Authentic cannoli technique: Serious Eats

Make-Ahead: The shells can be fried up to 3 days ahead and stored in an airtight container at room temperature. The ricotta filling can be made a day ahead and refrigerated. Do not fill the shells until just before serving — 30 minutes maximum. Unfilled shells can also be frozen for up to a month.

Pro Tips: The type of ricotta matters enormously. Traditional Sicilian cannoli use sheep's milk ricotta, which is drier, sweeter, and more complex than cow's milk ricotta. If you can find it, use it. If not, use the best whole-milk ricotta you can find and drain it thoroughly. The dough must be rolled paper-thin — if it's too thick, the shells won't shatter properly when you bite into them. The oil temperature is critical: too low and the shells absorb oil and become greasy; too high and they brown before the inside cooks. The Brachetto adds a subtle pink blush to the filling — if you want a deeper color, add a few drops of natural beet powder. Never substitute chocolate chips with chocolate chunks — the chips are small enough to distribute evenly without overwhelming the filling.